My Grimaldi Lines ferry MV Corfu,had been in port since yesterday. Smaller than the ferry that I’d taken from Barcelona, it still dominated the port skyline. That is, until today, when a new ship on the block turned up-the Cunard liner Queen Victoria. Dwarfing all around it, this 3000 passenger liner seemed to be a bit of a blot on the landscape, a huge floating symbol of indulgence. I don’t think the Cagliari tourism imdustry minded though, and the (very) loud American voices reverberated around the narrow streets as much needed revenue flowed in.

It had struck me in Cagliari how massive the effects of COVID must have been in a society that absolutely exists and thrives on bustle and contact and outdoor mixing-Italy was the first European country to be hit hard and the ensuing lockdowns, overnight turning these lively, noisy, hectic streets into ghost towns must have been such a worrying and marked contrast, more obvious than in other places maybe .

Anyway, my crossing was no different to the QV passengers, in as much as we were both on a ship. In the sea. There the similarity ended . I mean who needs a cabin, a three course meal, a waiter, a bar and a view of the Mediterranean sunset from the lounge deck? I bet any of those passengers would have gladly swapped that for a reclining seat that didn’t recline, in a lounge that wasnt loungey.

And what would they have given to watch seven solid hours of Tu Si Que Vales at top volume on the no escape communal TV? Loosely translated as “you are worth it” it was basically Italy’s Got Talent on a loop. The third time I saw the Arthur Scargill lookalike in the white trousers dancing to “Staying Alive” I knew his finale was to climb a step ladder and do the splits into a cactus plant. Seriously. Still made me wince though.

We arrived into Palermo at 5am. Even thought the ship wasn’t going any further, everyone was disembarked into the night. I rode into the centre and waited for daylight to form a plan. My first impression was litter everywhere . You know those photos of Glastonbury the day after everyone’s gone home? It was like that,talk about the morning after the night before .

It was nice seeing the city wake up though,and I had a breakfast tip off that opened at 730am…..